Last week’s Parisian collections, destined for next summer, exuded a delicious ‘Discreet Charm of Bourgeoisie’ to such an extent that even the most whimsical houses like Jean-Charles de Castelbajac or Tsumori Chisato took a ‘sensible’ air. Almost all stereotypes of the ‘respectable woman’ were recalled: necktie collars (Elie Saab), buttoned-up, full dresses and midi skirts (Chanel and Christian Dior), long sleeves on long jackets, pearl necklaces and scarves (Jean Paul Gaultier), wise pastels and tidy chignons…did anyone forget their white poodle outside the hairdressers’? 

That being said, the deadly temptress look is definitely OUT. These ‘real’ clothes mark the end of utopia, rebellion and ostentatious waste by metaphorically expressing the return to traditional values: discretion, distinction and reserve…all things proper and clean. Fashion is best known for detecting, interpreting and reflecting mood changes in society and so this well-behaved trend has spread out for quite a few seasons now. Thus, Viktor & Rolf’s cupcake princess dresses seem to have been humorously designed for eligible daughters at society parties.  

Apparently, designers want to make an ironic statement about coquettish femininity. Could, perhaps, the coexistence of too many conflicting female role models create confusion and a lack of identity? Would the mature, devoted and comforting female type be more appropriate during troubled times? Chic attire for prudish homebodies or a reflection of the present conformist need for peace and quiet? 

Louise Kissa

lkissa@neurope.eu