As flickering light bulbs die out and memories of the past year grow ever more distant, shoppers eagerly await the January sales as an occasion to treat themselves, all the while taking a clever peek at the new arrivals for next spring. 

After a careful screening of the spring/summer accessory collections, we happily discover these mini-sculptures, too often influenced by 21st century interior design. 

Owning a strong ‘plastic’ character and a ‘solid’ structure, next spring’s shoes offer a wide variety of heels: thick and enduring see-through ‘columns’ à la Charlotte Perriand (Casadei), small anchor points that refer to furniture parts like office chair ‘aluminum’ feet or wooden Scandinavian armchair bases (United Nude), minimal chessmen (Givenchy), or coral-like pillars (Chanel). 

Heels definitely lead an independent life, as they add a touch of fantasy and humor to otherwise conventional forms. 

Round shapes contrast asymmetrical ones (Aperlai), as the ‘grafting’ of materials turns shoes into hybrid art objects. Wood, porcelain, glass, leather, fabrics and precious metals are imitated in a pastiche spirit, as designers question functionality and industrial production versus craft making.

Jean Paul Gaultier’s heel-less ‘tattoo’ boot resembles a Dutch china vase, while Roberto Cavalli’s metal-sculpted platform shoe, is inspired by silversmith art or woodcraft. Giambattista Valli’s accessories clearly reference tapestry and wallpaper prints, as clutches evoke Art Deco bookbinding and its use of exotic skin patchwork and embossed geometric motifs (Givenchy, Etro and Elie Saab). Resin and plastic take a candy-like form (Missoni) or even punk-ily mimic fur (Max Kibardin). 

All in all, the foot is preciously enclosed and put on a pedestal, elevated as it is, by a spectacular heel that likens a contemporary sculpture stand. Well-thought out and luxuriously adorned, next spring’s accessories convey a sense of quirkiness that perfectly suits the philosophy of the moment: to stand out by showing off a world of one’s own.

Louise Kissa 

lkissa@neurope.eu