While delving into the Spring/Summer 2012 collections, and coming across such clever sources of inspiration as those of architecture and interior design, we spotted an undercurrent trend…whether loud or discreet, your feet will more often than not own a particular theatrical, cartoonish touch. Eccentricity with economy is much welcome, as shoes that are banal, sad or simply unremarkable should be put away into a dark corner of one’s attic. 

Although next spring’s clothing collections were widely influenced by the late 50’s, with their knee length skirts, buttoned-up jackets and vintage colors, lavender, pumpkin orange or bottle green, all borrowed from napkin-style geometric printed fabrics, this season’s accessories are much more ubiquitous. 

 In a delicious vaudeville spirit, the John Galliano brand proposed a refreshingly young version of the dandy buttoned bicolor boot in several contrasting tones.  

Whereas, a distinctive boudoir air can be found in the Yves Saint Laurent, Viktor & Rolf and Thakoon accessory collections, with their 18th century-style moccasins or mules and lingerie silky bags (Miu Miu). Modernity is conveyed through detailing and little variations: large geometric buckles on oversized Pompadour slippers, plastic ribbons on precious-looking mules, or golden tips on Louis-heeled shoes. 

Indeed, a discreet retro eroticism can be perceived in Sonia Rykiel’s and Dolce & Gabbana’s mock-boots. The foot is concealed and revealed all at once by the red or black ‘lace’. Solid colors, shapes, heels and buckles, give an imposing but fun character to these cartoonish feet.

Furthermore, Lacoste and Rupert Sanderson’s graphic sandals, remind us of comic strips and bubbles, in a game of regular versus irregular shapes. Likewise, Tabitha Simmons and Cindy Glass’s shoes use splashy graffiti prints and neon tints often found in contemporary graphic design.

Moreover, Prada’s bags and shoes refer to American 50’s cartoons, and evolve around an essentially masculine element of prestige: the car. Thus, retro cars are playfully printed on bags, and sandals are ‘winged’ and adorned with mechanical parts… attached to lipstick edges.

Equally vintage is Olympia Le-Tan’s collection of book-clutches, which wink at the ‘fashionable-but-well-read’ crowd, while Yazbukey’s provocative accessories, including a chili hot pepper can bag, all reinterpret humorous cartoon codes.

Even more cartoonish, both candy-like and vintage, are Vivienne Westwood’s old red and light wood-colored striped pumps, as Minnie mouse goes retro.

Louise Kissa 

lkissa@neurope.eu