Redefining Rock, Chic & Elegance

A cloud of elegance, contrasted by a gang of hi-tech street fighters (Jean Paul Gaultier, Balenciaga), not to mention a generous dose of British fun (Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood) marked the Parisian runways last week, as we chose to talk about the first set.
Roland Mouret’s collection was the epitome of Parisian chic. ‘Ease’ and fluidity were added to his famous curve-caressing, side-slit dresses, which he accessorized with smartly-cut jackets, and, loose gold beaded necklaces and bracelets, thus imposing a clinging vibe to his very sexy femme fatale looks. The luminous blue-gold, orange and yellow/white-striped hues (an alternative to the checker trend) were often emphasized by a distinctive black strip around the waist: the ultimate trait of the hourglass silhouettes he adores.
A new dynamic rock attitude characterized Elie Saab’s collection, mainly depicted through the numerous black mini dresses, adorned with his forever- sophisticated gold-embroidered integrated pieces. Features like the oversized hip pockets and asymmetrically cut vests hinted at a new element of modernity in Saab’s work. This master of drapery expressed his talent in coral pink, striking sea blue and a wonderful pointillist print in turquoise-green and peachy-pink, all the while never forsaking his signature, one-shoulder floor-scraping Oscar gowns in muted beige tones.
Christophe Josse’s introductory Ready-to-wear collection consisted in young and refined concise lines – mainly ‘perfectly’ tailored pantsuits in pearl soft neutral shades. Rounded shoulders, carefully constructed tight sleeves and fine satin lining suggested that the Couturier transposed the craftsmanship of traditional Haute Couture to his Prêt-a-porter line. The initial concept was to ‘build’ or ‘explore’ the basic wardrobe of a modern Parisian woman, all around the clock, with interchangeable pieces, while putting the emphasis on high quality. More formal evening wear included a glamorous black-sequined vest, a light muted pink and black party dress, along with a beautiful emerald natural rooster-feathered bustier dress reserved for well-behaving, rock nights out. This more accessible collection should give a taste of romanticism to many young admirers.
Barbara Bui is well-known for her luxurious timeless pieces: her work on leather, suede and python, her love of silver and gold surfaces, straight neat dresses and pants, along with polished metallic buckles, zips and stones: and that’s exactly what she gave her audience this season.
Haider Ackermann lightened out his usual dark and gloomy charcoal palette by adding ‘hopeful’ lilac and ‘energetic’ yellow tones. A new breath of life seemed to be blown into this very intellectual collection as, well-calculated ruffles and drapes were tailored into his elegantly long poised gowns.
Marcel Marongiu designed biker girl gone lady-like outfits for Guy Laroche. This lady-likeness took the form of refined draped ‘wild’ prints accompanied by peep-toe slick-laced booties. Also a lilac follower, the rock element in Marongiu’s dresses included smooth silver beads – no excessive gold nails or spikes: just the groove we’ve been looking for…

 

 lkissa@neurope.eu